Stolen Blog

I stole this entry, beautifully written by Virgina, from the Crosses' blog. I justify the theft and reproduction here by the fact that Suzi and David accompanied Richard and Virginia on this foray inland; thus, sharing seems appropriate. I hope I will be forgiven this act of plagiarism by all four of the travelers. I just couldn't resist. -Kris

Our recent travel into the interior of El Salvador helped us get to grips with some of the nuances of the country's history and politics. William and Osirus live only half an hour's bus ride from each other, both are devoted family men in their late fifties to early sixties. Both men are generous and attentive hosts and surround themselves with the things they love which include enviable gardens and breathtaking views, but here the similarities end.

William is an "Ameriphile" (my word) right down to his boistrous sense of humor. He served in both the U.S and El Salvadoran military as a helicopter crew chief which, over his long career took him to Germany and Japan. He has a framed and signed photograph of Ronald Regan in his sitting room and he upholds the belief that Regan was the best president the U.S. has ever had. Two years ago William had his own business in the States but chose to return to his roots in Ahuachapan with his family to protect their integrity. The family lives in a gated community under the watchful eye of armed guards with sawn off shot guns on their shoulders, a residue from the civil war. Their 4,000 square foot house is protected by heavy wrought iron bars across all the doors and windows and once inside the residence it seems one has been transported to some grand suburb of the United States, for the style and antique décor is straight out of "Home and Gardens" magazine. The Neo-Georgian swimming pool sparkles amid clipped emerald lawns and the orderly flower beds almost call out rank and file as William and his gardener pass by in conference.

Osirus (after the dog-headed Egyptian god of the underworld) also has a beautiful garden surrounding his home. It is a random profusion of fruits and flowers. The walls of the sprawling compound are painted deep blues and oranges with childlike butterfly decals adorning every one. This is the "Hostal de Mama y Papa" in Tacuba. The town is set in the shade grown coffee highlands near to the border with Guatemala. It has seen its share of revolution, conflict, poverty and recently gang activity, but now the streets are filled with families and children at night and there is a palpable unity that has survived the decades of strife.

Osirus and his bustling wife Lydia have opened their home to the world. The hostel with its three guest rooms surrounds a verdant courtyard. The living all happens under covered patios filled with multi-coloured hammocks and Spanish colonial style furniture. The front door is flung open to the street, allowing friends and guests to pass easily all day until the last light goes out in the cabins. Dogs, cats, chickens and ducks move at will with the residents around the hostel's cozy perimeter and the guest book speaks for the delight and relaxation found there by all.

Nowadays Osirus moves at his own pace. His daughter is well married and his kinetic son Manolo runs high energy "Imposible Tours" throughout the Parque National El Imposible. It is not unusual to find Osirus kicked back in a hammock with his guitar and a favorite pet duck in his lap who sings along with the languid ballads, but he can switch gears with ease and take up the slack when Manolo gets double booked. Osirus is no beginner when it comes to 4-wheel drive mountain tours through mud.

It is disturbing to witness El Salvador's rigid dependence on the United States but if it were to dare make its own way in the world, it would not only be a brave move but also an organic one.