Surarrow

What a wonderful paradise this is! The uninhabited atoll of Suwarrow was "first discovered" by a Russian explorer who named it after his ship, the Suvarov, in 1814. According to one guidebook, in 1855 a mysterious box with US$15,000 was found, probably left by the crew of a wrecked Spanish galleon in 1742, so it appears that others had been here before. The locals from the northern atoll of Manihiki say that the indigenous people have always come here to dive, and I am not sure how far back in history the native population has been here. I will find out as I listen to the oral history that Api, one of the rangers here, knows so well. 


In the early 20th century Australians tried to introduce gold-lipped pearl oysters unsuccessfully and a copra (coconut) estate was established until termites took over. During WWII New Zealand coast-watchers were here, leaving behind an old building on Anchorage Island. From 1952 onward New Zealander Tom Neale lived alone on Suwarrow and wrote a book about his experiences titled An Island to Oneself, which I hope to read while we are here. Api is somehow related to Tom Neale through family, and as I pay attention to the valuable information I hear, obviously I will learn more about the details of this area. What an opportunity! 


After a fantastic day with Api coconut crab hunting on a distant motu, Tuesday evening the yachties all brought food to the clubhouse, which is part of the old Tom Neale house, and a coconut crab/lobster feast was had by all. WOW! James and Api gave a toast to Graciela, who was celebrating her birthday, and to all those cruisers who had been with them for two weeks and were about to leave. It was a very special evening, enhanced by Api's soothing songs from Manihiki. 


Yesterday about six yachts left and we were treated to a beautiful day of relaxation; we dinghed nearby and dove a fairly deep reef looking for mantas but found a huge turtle instead........bummer!.......along with an array of coral and big parrotfish. Later I also dove a shallow area near Sidewinder, which is wonderfully clear and colorful. Late in the afternoon we went ashore and strolled around the entire motu, in awe of the variety of coral left behind by the ocean, along with pretty little sand beaches lined with sweeping coconut palms. We sat with James and Api as the sun set and talked into the evening, feeling so lucky to be here with these two wonderful human beings. Today it is windy but clear and we hope to go with Api to Perfect Reef. Hmmmmmmmmmm. Doesn't this sound like the perfect summer camp?! - S.